Greece Part III - Athens

What can be written about Athens that hasn't already been said? We did the things in Athens that you do on your first trip to Athens - The Acropolis, The Agora, The Roman Forum, The Plaka, The Temple of Zeus, The Panathenaic Olympic Stadium, and museums and well, the list goes on. I'll go light on the history and try to add some fresh commentary to our three days in the Greek capital.

The Acropolis, as you would imagine dominates the skyline of the city. It is surreal to catch glimpses of the ruins of the Parthenon between speeding buses and office buildings. You cannot go more than a few blocks without stumbling upon more ruins; it is without a doubt the most charming part of the ancient city. On our first day, we took advantage of Rick Steves' audio walking tour. We started in Syntagma Square and wound our way through the city.

The parliament building is directly across the street from the square. The highlight here is the two guards dressed in pleated skirts, scarves and poms on their shoes. They make elaborate coordinated high-kick passes in front of the tomb of the unknown soldier (in between the two guards in this pic). It reminded us of the high-stepping border guards between India and Pakistan.

There are 400 pleats representing the 400 years of Ottoman rule, the poms are for if the Turks try to come back.

Syntagma Square toward Ermou Street

Ermou Street is basically high end retail shops, cool because it is relatively new, part of the clean up effort the city made in the late 90's and for the Olympic games in 2004.

Church of Kapnikarea, built around 1050.

This *ahem* beautiful building is the Greek Orthodox equivalent of the Vatican, The Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens or Metropolis. The inside was just as scaffolded as the outside.

Archbishop Damaskinos was head of the church during WWII and was one of the few outspoken critics of the Nazis persecution of Jews. When threatened with execution by firing squad, he responded, "According to the traditions of the Greek Orthodox Church, our prelates are hanged, not shot. Please respect our traditions." How can you not love that.

The Mini-Metropolis, right next to the big one.

I liked this small church because it combined secular as well as religious images and has around ten different cross designs representing different traditions. It was built in the 13th century.

More of the Mini-Metopolis, so many cool textures on this church.

From the churches, we started our walk around the Acropolis. This is a must walk route for an Athens visitor, though most tourist don't. Cool neighbourhood of narrow walkways and awesome views.

The cats are apparently famous. We happend to come at feeding time when this dude started throwing out raw meat.

Becky never misses an opportunity to play with kitties.

The Acropolis from the neighbourhood below.

At the base of the Acropolis is the Roman Forum, the gathering place during Roman rule.

The Library of Hadrian, built in AD 132. It has a huge philosophy section.

Looking up from Monastiraki Square. Vendors were selling cheap fruit

The city was was great, but the highlight is of course the goods on top of the rock.

The Acropolis

Rick Steves was again our guide to the Parthanon and other buildings on the Acropolis. As we walked into the grounds, the first thing that catches the eye is the Theatre of Dionysus. The theatre has undergone several changes, originally a small stage and wooden benches, the Romans outfitted it with marble and a much larger stage.

Just a little further is another theatre, built by the Romans and still used for concerts and performances today. It is called the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, but it is affectionately known as Yoni's Theatre since he once performed here.

And finally, we make it to the top. The Propylaea is the grand entrance to the Acropolis. In ancient times, during the festival of Athena, all Athenians would march from the Ancient Agora down below up the hill and through this grand entrance. On the south side of the entrance is the Temple of Athena Nike.

The Propylaea.

Melissa and Jeff in awe as they make their way up the steps.

Temple of Athena Nike.

The Temple of Athena Nike was completely taken apart and reconstructed years ago.

Looking back on the Propylaea once inside the complex.

The first thing we see is the Parthenon and immediately it is humbling to think that we are walking where Aristotle, Plato, and Socrates walked.

Our first view of the Parthenon.

I like this picture because it shows how great Melissa and Jeff were. I made them take way to many pictures of us. They patiently tolerated my photo-snobbery. Better than me awkwardly sighing at some other poor tourist who has cut off all our heads! 

Across from the Parthenon is the Erechtheion, the most important building to the ancient Athenians. This is where the sacrifices took place during the festival of Athena.

These ladies are now replicas. Four of the six are in the Acropolis museum nearby, the other two are in London...of course.

There has been an olive tree here (not this one) for 2500 years, since Athena apparently struck this point to win the city from Poseidon. #Mythology 

Learning is fun.

You can see the rest of the sprawling city from the top. The colums are the Temple of Zeus and the Panathenaic Olympic stadium is in the middle left.

Right next to the Acropolis is Mars Hill, famous because this is the place where the Apostle Paul first preached to the Athenians. 

View of Mars Hill from the Acropolis.

Mars Hill also has great views of the Acropolis.

That evening, I walked up to a nearby hill after dinner to catch some nighttime views.

The Panathenaic Olympic Stadium

The stadium was used for parts of the ancient Panathenaic olympics and was originally wooden. In 329 BC it was rebuilt with marble and is still all marble today. This is also the place of the first modern olympic games in 1896. 

Jeff''s dad was a collegiate hurdler at TCU, as if you couldn't see the athletic genes oozing from this picture.

This tunnel led from what was basically a cave serving as a locker room down to the track. Now it is a museum that has all of the modern olympic torches - worth the visit.

The Ancient Agora

Agora translates to meeting place. The Ancient Agora of Athens is the place where the great philosophers spent their time each day. It was the hub of the city and although it is just ruins now, it still has a magical vibe.

Ready for some more Rick Steves!

 

A 3000 year old aquaduct still in working order. 

Becky with a Spartan shield. . . from a Spartan defeat. #Go Blue

The gem of the Agora is the Temple of Hephaistos. It is one of the best preserved temples in all of Greece.

What is left of the Odeon of Agripa, a theatre.

Walking up the Panathenaic Way, the same route that was used by ancient Athenian as they marched up to the Acropolis each year during the festival of Athena.

The Temple of Olympian Zeus

The Temple of Olympian Zeus dwarfs the Parthenon. It was started in the 6th century BC, but not finished until the Greek loving Roman Emperor, Hadrian, had it finished in the 2nd century AD. And then it was destroyed in the next century and never restored. At one point, there were 104 columns. One thing I thought was cool is the fallen column collapsed in a powerful storm in 1852 and has stayed the same ever sense.

All the ruins were making us delirious.

And thus the silliness begins. 

Mount Lycabettus

We had one more item on our agenda, and that was to take the cable car to the highest point in Athens to get a view of the city. After discovering that the cable car is just a cruel joke that locals tell tourists, we hiked up using the strength gained from nine days of wine an gyro consumption. To be fair to the Athenians, there may actually be some kind of cable car, but we certainly didn't find it. In the end, the walk was well worth the view.

The sea in the background.

Farewell

Our last night in Athens was also my birthday and Becky, Melissa and Jeff all conspired to arrange a dinner at a beautiful hotel rooftop (where we happened to run into a family from AES who's two children Becky and I taught). Drinking wine and eating wonderful Greek food for the final night with friends was a perfect way to celebrate a birthday and a fantastic trip.